Safeguarding Our Heritage

The Fair Isle marine resource: A community proposal for its sustainable management

1. Fair Isle now and then: the current and historical maritime situation

 

1.1 AIMS AND OBJECTIVES

The aim of this document is to highlight the many values of Fair Isle’s rich marine environment and the benefits these afford the Fair Isle community. It also introduces the notion of a small island community caring for its marine environment and recognising the need to act to safeguard its richness and assets.

The primary objective is to increase awareness of the urgent need, and stimulate action and support for, integrated marine resource management of the seas around Fair Isle to ensure that the values and benefits which have sustained the community over many centuries are preserved and, in some cases, reinstated.

The ultimate goal is the establishment of a management regime sympathetic to the long-term needs of the marine environment and its users, most particularly the island community for whom a healthy, protected marine environment is a social, economic and cultural prerequisite.

THE ISSUES

The value of Fair Isle’s maritime environment extends far beyond just birds. There are two major elements to this extraordinary richness. The first relates to the natural environment and the second to the human element. The two aspects are inextricably linked and a threat to the first has serious implications for the second. By means of collective experience and knowledge, the Fair Isle community has identified a progressive erosion of this richness. It is not too late to reverse the process, but the Fair Isle community is concerned that, without concerted action, the resource will be devalued or lost. The issues are described below.

The Natural Environment

Birds

Seabird colonies of national and international importance, sustained by rich food supply offshore

Fair Isle’s importance for birds, and in particular its nationally and internationally important breeding populations of a range of seabird species, is universally acknowledged. Managing the Sea for Birds (Riddiford & Thompson 1997) deals in depth with this issue. It is not the intention here to reiterate the information published therein other than to extend the theme drawn in that document of the dependency of the seabird populations on the overall richness of the seas around Fair Isle.

Fish

Large sand-eel concentrations and spawning area, sand-eels vital food item for seabirds

Although Fair Isle’s birds are particularly valued and an excellent indicator of a rich marine environment, we must not lose sight of the ecological factors which augment and to a great degree sustain this group. With few exceptions, Fair Isle seabird diets are composed predominantly of fish. The main prey of most species during the breeding season is the sand-eel (see Appendix 1 for scientific names). The seas around Fair Isle are a major spawning ground for sand-eels and huge numbers normally occur throughout the year, though most obviously and accessibly (to birds and man) during the summer period. More information about the ecological relationship between sand-eels and birds is given in Managing the Sea for Birds.

Fish abundance and variety related to water quality, plankton productivity, habitats for shelter and breeding

Fish are a constant major component of Fair Isle’s marine environment. Every habitat supports a rich variety. Inshore, rock pools and kelp forests support populations of five-bearded rockling, butterfish, shanny, scorpion-fish and small wolf-fish, or stanebiters as they are known locally. A substantial population of three-spined sticklebacks, Fair Isle’s only permanent "freshwater" species, thrives in a tidal pool at Muckle Uri Geo. Offshore, a considerable number of wrecks provide a further habitat. Island divers have observed how quickly the last wreck was colonised by ling, ballan wrasse and the crustacean, the squat lobster. Ship wrecks are known to attract fish but at Fair Isle merely mimic the numerous rocky outcrop, fissure, cave and reef habitats which abound. Thus, in contrast to many locations in the UK, concentrations and variety of fish are as likely to be encountered in natural as in wreck habitats. Deeper offshore there is a large sand plain which surrounds the isle and runs up towards Shetland. Its once prolific white-fish banks and cod-holes have been badly overfished in recent years, yet there is still a large variety of life in this zone. Immature whiting and to a lesser extent haddock are plentiful around the isle, but not of catchable size. Mackerel and herring still appear in their season. Contributors to the abundance and variety of fish are: unpolluted water, food availability including high plankton productivity in summer, a range of habitats for shelter and breeding. The unpolluted nature of Fair Isle waters was illustrated by a study of pesticides, polychlorinated biphenyls and heavy metals in samples of fulmar, shag and guillemot eggs in 1980-81 (part of a UK-wide survey organised through the Monks Wood Experimental Station, Huntingdonshire). The study demonstrated that the levels and frequency for each were among the lowest of any UK sample (Fair Isle eggs being either free or containing very low levels of chemicals and metals tested for). Fair Isle’s seas are distant from rivers carrying sediment and from industrial, urban and intensive farming areas with their chemical derivatives; its seas are also subject to strong tides, currents and meteorological forces which constantly displace and renew water masses. These factors combine to ensure that Fair Isle waters are both clean and clear. Divers are always quick to remark on the clarity of Fair Isle seas. Light penetrates deeply (demonstrated by kelp growing at 30 m). Forward visibility is excellent at most times of the year and only reduced in summer by the natural phenomenon of a dense plankton bloom.

Plankton’s vital role in fish abundance

his plankton bloom is a major factor in the abundance of fish (and other animals). A combination of cool summer temperatures, tides, sea currents and the juxtaposition of sea areas and water bodies of different temperature, salinity and depth all contribute to water circulation. This stirring of the water column increases nutrient availability to the plankton, which proliferates and provides an abundant summer food source for fish, including sand-eels, and other marine life.

An area of importance to commercial fish for breeding, shelter and food

The combination of food availability and suitable habitats for shelter and breeding make Fair Isle waters an important site for a range of commercially important fish. It is a known spawning area for sand-eels, herring, Norway pout and, at low densities, mackerel. It is within the main egg and larval concentration for sprat and, immediately east of Fair Isle, is a major nursery area for haddock. It is within the boundaries of the cod spawning area (though not a main site) and a feeding area for all the above, plus for saithe and whiting (source for commercial fish status: UKDMAP, British Oceanographic Data Centre). Above all, Fair Isle waters are a fine representative example of a diverse, rich environment for fish. There are other places with similar attributes, but few where they are represented in such a compact area.

Mammals

An endemic field mouse, thriving within seabird colonies

Fair Isle, isolated from other land masses since before the last Ice Age, has few terrestrial species of mammal. One, however, is endemic and has affinities with the sea. The Fair Isle field mouse is a form of the wood mouse unique to Fair Isle. During the summer months the field mouse is common within and at the edge of seabird colonies, where it probably benefits from discarded food and invertebrates attracted to the colonies.

An abundance of seals, including breeding Atlantic grey seals

In compensation for a limited range of terrestrial mammals there is a diversity of marine species. Atlantic grey seals are abundant and pup on beaches of the north and west and inside suitable sea caves. The once rare common seal occurs with increasing frequency and numbers. Grey seals can be encountered in all sheltered bays and hauled out on rocks throughout the year. In summer both species are often present for comparison in South Harbour. Seals have probably never been so abundant, the result of increased protection and the end of traditional small-scale harvesting to make seal-skin products for local consumption. The current abundance of seals is attracting pods of killer whales. Observations in the last few years have included killers targeting seals, driving them on to rocks or forcing them to take refuge close to humans, such as in the harbour at North Haven. Killers have also been observed taunting seals by circling the rocks on which they have hauled out, presumably to panic the seals into entering the water.

A diverse selection of whales and dolphins, an indicator group for a quality marine environment

The killer whale is just one of a number of cetacean species seen annually in Fair Isle waters. The porpoise is common, occasionally in pods exceeding 50. The white-beaked dolphin is frequent offshore and a regular highlight of ferry trips between Shetland and Fair Isle, riding the bow-wave of the island mail-boat, the Good Shepherd. Minke whale is another regular sighting, though only since the mid 1980s. Risso’s dolphin appears to migrate past Fair Isle every autumn, in September or October. Other species seen, though less regularly, in recent years include white-sided dolphin, common dolphin, sperm whale and pilot whale. Most spectacular of all, a humpback whale was seen off Fair Isle in 1994. The current frequency of cetaceans in Fair Isle waters is a reflection of suitable food supply, increased protection and greater awareness and interest by observers. Several species, such as the porpoise, tend to be associated with fish shoals and can be located sharing the resource with a frenzy of feeding seabirds. Minke whale has been seen feeding within 50 m of the shore, ensnaring fish within a circular "curtain" of bubbles before thrusting into the shoal. The current diversity of cetaceans should be no surprise. Earlier this century Fair Isle waters were a rich area for this group. Older islanders saw "any amount of them", including large whales regularly during fishing excursions in the 1920s (James A. Stout, pers. comm.). The current situation is merely a gradual return of cetaceans to their rightful place in the ecology of the area. It may be more than sheer chance that the series of sightings for minke whale, though a species not targeted close to Fair Isle, coincided with a whaling moratorium enacted in the late 1980s. Cetacean numbers and diversity may be at least as useful an indicator of the health and quality of our marine environment as are seabird numbers. In addition, they are already becoming an asset in the promotion of tourism to the isle, an argument developed in Tourism below.

Other wildlife

Marine Nature Conservation Review survey has provided an important description of marine values

Information about other aspects of Fair Isle’s marine ecology is mainly derived from an intensive six day survey in August 1987, supplemented by a small, scattered collection of non systematic records. The 1987 survey, undertaken by a team of marine biologists from the Field Studies Council Oil Pollution Research Unit and the Nature Conservancy Council, was part of a general survey of Shetland inshore waters for the UK’s Marine Nature Conservation Review, and targeted the collecting of data for nature conservation assessment. This survey of 23 littoral, intertidal and offshore sites established a reference base. It also provided an important description of marine values, at both life form and ecological community levels. A wealth of material has been generated by this survey (e.g. Anon 1988, Howson 1988, Howson & Hill 1997; MNCR database). A summary of marine wildlife features for Fair Isle, drawn from Howson & Hill (1997), is given in Appendix 4 of this document.

Notable species discovered despite limited investigations

Despite investigations restricted to the MNCR survey "snapshot" and limited additional data, a suite of marine species has already been found which are of local, regional or national importance. They divide into species which have northern distributions and are recorded only infrequently around mainland Britain; northern species also found on the west coast of Scotland or in the North Sea; species which have southern distributions and are new records for Shetland; and species which are notable for a variety of other reasons, including UK or international rarity. At the biodiversity level, some of this rarity is contributed by the morphological variation (e.g. in Fucus species) brought about by ecological factors such as extreme exposure and isolation. For a summary of these species, see Appendix 5 of this document. Logic dictates that further discoveries remain to be made. The findings so far underline the biogeographical importance of Fair Isle.

The littoral supports a range of notable coastal plants reliant on maritime factors for their survival

Much more information is known about the littoral fringe. Fair Isle’s cliffs and coastline support important lichen and higher plant communities, including such notable species as the lichen Lichina pygmaea, and a number of locally or nationally important coastal flowers, including species of very restricted World range. Many of these occupy narrow ecological niches determined by physical or natural factors related to the sea. The best example is perhaps the Oysterplant, a rare and threatened plant of northern shingle shores, which relies on the sea for seed dispersal and colonisation of new areas. This species colonised Fair Isle in the 1980s after winter storms. It grows just above normal spring tide high water mark and has prospered after assiduous protection by members of the island community.

Communities

A range of habitats support a diversity of rich or unusual communities

Howson (1988) recognised nineteen intertidal and subtidal habitats, each supporting a series of communities determined by additional factors of exposure, shore or benthic position, light penetration and other variations in physical characteristics. The survey demonstrated that the natural communities were strongly northern in character; at very exposed sites, plant and animal zonation patterns were more complex than normally encountered; the combination of wave surge and damp atmospheric conditions elevated the intertidal zones by several metres; the subtidal zones extended to considerable depths, due to the extent of light penetration through extremely clear water; the abundant caves, surge gullies, arches and geos had rich sponge and ascidian communities; and at intertidal level, caves and geos had rich lower shore rock communities (Howson 1988).

Fair Isle is custodian to littoral, sublittoral and offshore habitats of nature conservation importance

The characteristic features and biota of each habitat were described by Howson (1988) and a summary of communities given by (Howson & Hill 1997; MNCR database). Some of these habitats are of particular conservation interest. They include West of Skerry, Tail of Uren/Smirri Geo and the numerous Fair Isle caves. West of Skerry was described by Howson (1988) as an example of the interrelationship of factors influencing zonation on the open coast at a site fully exposed to the Atlantic Ocean and a considerable distance from the influences of other islands or landmasses. The rocky shore at Tail of Uren/Smirri Geo was identified as a site of prime nature conservation importance in its role as a good example of local shelter. Howson (1988) described it as "a Very Exposed shore with elevated zonation patterns, where the protection of a small headland creates an exposure gradient. The community, therefore, changes along the headland to a sheltered shore community with normal zonation". Howson (1988) also cited caves with rich sponge and ascidian communities as of nature conservation importance. She concluded that the very exposed intertidal and subtidal sites must rank among the most exposed in the British Isles (Howson 1988). The discovery of seaweeds growing 8 m above normal high water is an extraordinary phenomenon, unique to Fair Isle, Papa Stour and the Faroe Islands in the North Atlantic (K. Hiscock, pers. comm.). A list of communities and their national status is given in Appendix 6 of this document.

A prolific plankton underpins Fair Isle’s rich marine environment

The MNCR survey focused largely on the intertidal, immediate subtidal and deeper offshore zones. Two further zones are of equal conservation importance and integral to the maritime environment. The first is the open sea, pelagic or water column zone. This is the main feeding zone for marine mammals, seabirds and many fish species. The primary food source for this distinct community is the plankton which proliferates in Fair Isle waters, particularly in the summer months. The process leading to this proliferation is complex but generally requires vigorous mixing of water bodies, raising inorganic nutrients into the water column, coupled with favourable light conditions. Light is important because it stimulates photosynthesis amongst phytoplankton. Too much mixing, however, can lower the overall light level thus reducing phytoplankton activity and production (Garcia-Soto & Pingree 1998). Fair Isle’s high latitude (at nearly 60ø N) and much lower mean wind speeds in mid summer than at any other time of year (Fair Isle Meteorological Station data) ensure that phytoplankton productivity is highest in June and July. Phytoplankton productivity promotes rapid zooplankton productivity which together resource an entire suite of marine biota, including sessile animals as well as those occupying the water column. The prolific plankton therefore, and particularly phytoplankton, underpins the entire Fair Isle marine ecosystem.

Terrestrial biodiversity is enhanced throughout the isle because of the influence of the sea

The marine environment is often considered not to extend above high water mark. Yet the influence of the sea is marked amongst Fair Isle’s terrestrial communities. To reflect this, and to demonstrate the holistic or integrated approach which needs to be taken in marine conservation assessments, the term "maritime" is used in this document to describe those terrestrial features related to the sea. A surprising range of communities occurs on the cliffs, the variation determined by factors such as elevation, aspect, substrate type, exposure to sun and wind, nutrient enrichment from breeding seabirds, vulnerability to grazing animals and soil wetness. Maritime communities are not confined to the cliffs. The strand-line and beaches, ranging from huge boulders to fine sand backed by emergent sand-dune, support their own communities. The entire cliff tops are ringed with coastal grassland. Grassland is the correct term but something of a misnomer because grass is often secondary to abundant sea pink, sea plantain and a host of other species including a suite of rarities (e.g. small adder’s-tongue, frog orchid). Winter gales and, occasional summer ones, douse the entire isle with salt and this is reflected in a small patch of true coastal grassland occurring at Upper Stoneybreck, about as far from the sea in any direction as one can get on Fair Isle. The maritime element is not confined to plants, either. For instance, the bristletail is a primitive insect which, according to the books, "lives as a scavenger among coastal rocks in the splash zone" (Chinery 1986). On Fair Isle, where it is known as the jumping jack, it is abundant on every stone wall on the isle, and even enters damper buildings. Maritime invertebrates such as the sea-slater and the sandhopper also occur well away from the shore. The marine influence increases biodiversity on land because a range of more specialised plants and animals are able to compete successfully against biota which in more favourable conditions would dominate.

Physical elements

Fair Isle’s location is a key contributor to its high biogeographical importance

Fair Isle has a number of physical characteristics which enhance the environmental importance of the marine area. The key element is its location in a transitional zone between the Atlantic Ocean and the North Sea and, to a lesser extent, within the sphere of influence of the Arctic. Its relative proximity to the edge of the continental shelf, with its associated oceanic fronts, and the influence of the North Atlantic Drift, also play a part in fixing Fair Isle as a rich environment of high biogeographical importance. The mean tidal range round the isle is 2 m (Howson 1988) but the intertidal zone extends in wave exposed sites to 8 m under the influence of gales and swell from distant storms, particularly from the Atlantic. Tidal flow around the isle is such that strong, nutrient bearing currents move primarily to the east of the isle where a pronounced tidal rip may be observed at most times of the day. Thus, even on calm days the seas around Fair Isle are seldom still for long. In addition, two thermal "mid-shelf fronts" occur close to Fair Isle, to the west and to the east. These fronts are found where two distinct water masses meet, and they occur only sparingly in the North Sea (Tasker et al. 1987). The east Fair Isle front shows a change in surface temperatures exceeding 1ø C over less than 5 km, a more pronounced change than at any other North Sea frontal boundary (Tasker et al. 1987). The influence of Atlantic waters penetrates farthest into the North Sea in winter (Tasker et al. 1987). The eastern front, therefore, is probably closest to Fair Isle in summer. There are a number of studies which demonstrate the importance of fronts to seabirds (see Tasker et al. 1987 for summary). Phytoplanktonic blooms associated with these fronts have also been demonstrated, e.g. by Pingree et al. (1978) for the front east of Fair Isle.

Meteorological factors play an important role in promoting conditions for plankton productivity

Climate changes in the past are known to have had a significant effect upon sea temperatures. This in turn may influence salinity levels, as may changes in wind patterns. The strength of tidal flow, itself in part at least affected by weather and other climate factors, may also influence biological parameters within the marine environment (e.g. by changing the position of mid-shelf fronts in relation to the isle). Heath et al. (1985) suggested that periods of strong inflow in the Fair Isle current caused the release into the euphotic zone of inorganic nutrients trapped beneath a thermocline to the north-west of Fair Isle. This induced increased phytoplanktonic growth around Fair Isle. Periods of relatively weak flow patterns would, conversely, lead to lower nutrient concentrations in the Fair Isle current (Heath et al. 1985). Aspects of climate change are being monitored on the isle by continuous collection of full weather data, since 1974, at the Fair Isle Meteorological Station (D. Wheeler, pers. comm.).

Other important physical characteristics include the quality of Fair Isle waters, which rank amongst the cleanest and clearest of any in Britain (for details see Fish section above).

Geology

Fair Isle’s coastline includes geological features of national conservation importance

The importance of certain geological features as habitats for fish are described above and for other marine biota in Howson (1988). Certain geological features, all at cliff sites, are also of conservation importance in their own right. They are: fossil plants of evolutionary significance; the only established Svalbardia fossil assemblage in Britain, at Buness; and copper ore minerals, chalcopyrite, chalcanthite and malachite, at Reeva and Copper Geo. The Buness locality is of great potential research interest for the understanding of the younger floras of the Middle Devonian, and the copper sites have historical and cultural significance. A geological summary of the terrestrial area is given by Mykura (1968).

Landscape

A magnificent natural landscape is enhanced by sympathetic, low impact human activities

Fair Isle’s breathtaking landscapes, dominated by dramatic cliffs, stacks, arches and caves, huge skyscapes and ever changing seas, are largely determined by natural physical characteristics. Nevertheless, the quality of these landscapes is enhanced by generally sympathetic human activities. As far as the horizon, the sea is empty of permanent structures, and terrestrial human developments have been low-key, in keeping with the isle’s cultural heritage and contributing to the overall open, uncluttered character of the isle. More subtly agricultural activities, particularly domestic stock grazing, have contributed to the landscape in a generally positive way, creating an uninterrupted band of short-turf cliff top coastal grassland which adds to the impression of an open, "natural" cliff dominated landscape. Even the two aerogenerators, visible from land and sea, are considered by many to blend well with the landscape, a perception enhanced by their environmentally friendly nature in harnessing the wind and drastically reducing the isle’s consumption of polluting fossil fuels.

Man and the Environment

Cultural maritime activities and traditions

The sea has both provided for, and determined the activities of, the island population during millennia

Current archaeological evidence indicates that Fair Isle has been inhabited for at least 4000 years. Throughout that time the sea has supported and sustained the culture and traditions of Fair Isle. This is summed up by Hunter (1996) who stated "Reliance on the immediate resources of land and sea is a characteristic of Fair Isle settlement over the last 4000 years". Even the land-based elements have been heavily dependent on the influence of the sea: crops and other agricultural developments limited by the scouring impact of salt-laden gales, frequent in winter, rarer but devastating in the growing season; land activities interrupted, often at a moment’s notice, by events at sea - from trading with passing boats to rescuing mariners whose vessels were in difficulty. The survival over millennia of a human community on a small isle, perceived by many as remote, bears testimony to the importance of the marine resource. Fruits of the sea extended beyond fish and shellfish to include the harvesting of the cliffs for seabirds and their eggs - a tradition which lasted well into this century. Long-term survival also bears witness to the care taken by the community to conserve its marine resource. The resource had to be renewable because the community had no recourse to alternatives. Necessity, therefore, demanded that harvesting of resources was at a sustainable level. Little surprise then that 1906-1912 was a period of intense prosecutions derived from complaints, supported by substantial evidence, from fishermen on the isle against illegal trawling in Fair Isle waters (sources: Procurator Fiscal Reports; newspaper articles pertaining to court cases - see Appendix 8 for an example). The lengthy time engaged in pursuing prosecutions gives some indication of the desperate situation Fair Isle fishermen felt themselves to be in, seeing their food source and livelihood utilised by others.

Fair Isle has a long tradition of social and economic contact, but until this century only by sea

Though community survival relied on immediate resources, there is ample evidence that this was supplemented by trading activities. The perception of remoteness does not take into account Fair Isle’s location as a crossroads or stepping stone between Orkney, Shetland and Scandinavia. The Fair Isle Channel, as it is known today, was always a thoroughfare for shipping movements both north-south and east-west. This meant that, though weather and sea conditions made communication and the exchange of goods difficult, there was social and economic contact - albeit mainly confined to the summer months; and always by sea until the coming of modern telecommunications and, in only the last 30 years, air traffic.

Artesanal products based on traditional skills continue to add diversity to the island economy

The remote location of Fair Isle meant that the human population was heavily reliant on its own skills. Many of these skills related to products associated with the sea. This tradition continues and provides diversity to the island economy. The most direct modern-day example is the traditional Shetland yoal boat-building business of Ian Best of Kenaby. But there are other examples, including the production of model classic wooden boats, traditional Fair Isle straw-backed chair making and traditional Shetland spinning-wheels. Though these rely today on wood imported from the mainland, the styles and artesanal heritage stretch back seamlessly to the days when the islanders utilised driftwood for a good proportion of their furniture and other household needs. Indeed, Stewart Thomson’s original spinning-wheels were made from driftwood, and only the demand for his product coupled with a lack of suitable driftwood has led to his use of imported materials.

Fishing

Fishing was an important economic activity, fish the main source of protein and offal a source of fertiliser

Fishing has been a major activity throughout Fair Isle’s history. Evidence points to the importance of fish as a source of protein for the community up until World War II; and since then as a welcome supplement to a range of foods restricted by availability, season and cost. In addition to home consumption, fish provided a commercial trade. Knowledge of commercial ventures in past centuries is limited by the amount of archive material available. However, it is known that commercial activities were taking place as long ago as the 16^th century, with archaeological evidence for much earlier; and for hundreds of years, rent was paid in dried fish. This century, fishing continued to be a substantial economic activity until after the second world war. Fish products were mainly lobsters and dried and salted fish, supplied to Shetland and Aberdeen. The perceived value of the resource may be measured by the fact that nothing was wasted. Even the offal was used, being incorporated as fertiliser to the land. Islanders with long memories argue that Fair Isle’s southern in-bye is still better crofting land because of the higher input of offal this area received (being nearest the coast and gutting stations). The importance of offal may also be gauged from the fact that in later years catches were taken home to gut.

Fair Isle’s careful management and protection of the resource was lost this century due to outside factors

Throughout this time, Fair Isle waters provided an apparently inexhaustible supply of fish. Fishing by Fair Isle folk made no impact on this resource because of the uncertain markets, a fishing hands density limited by small population size and the low-tech, non intensive methods employed (e.g. long-lining). The fish resource was protected from more intensive targeting by Fair Isle’s distance from other centres of fishing activity and by regulations which restricted certain types of fishing activity within 3 miles of the Fair Isle shore (through the Herring Fisheries Act of 1883). The decline, then virtual demise, of the local industry was brought about by the impact of outside forces in the guise of improved technology and more efficient boats, coupled with changes in fishing legislation. These forces included a movement at the beginning of this century towards: the use of ice which allowed trawlers to come up from Aberdeen for 2-3 days at a time; the arrival of seine netters in the 1960s which swept the "banks" clean of white fish; and the abandonment of the Herring Fisheries Act of 1883, which prohibited trawlers from Fair Isle’s (and Scotland’s) inshore waters, in favour of access through the Scotland Inshore Fisheries Act of 1984.

Marine archaeology

Fair Isle’s 100+ wrecks are of high archaeological, historical and cultural importance

Fair Isle has a very rich archaeological heritage, both terrestrial and marine. One notable feature of the marine heritage is the number of wrecks. Many boats have foundered over the centuries, victims to the isle’s dangerous reefs, currents and weather. Over 100 seabed wrecks are known, the most notable of which is El Gran Grif¢ n, flagship of the Spanish Armada’s Auxiliary Fleet, which foundered in September 1588. This site has been subject to extensive research and a range of artefacts recovered by maritime archaeologists; and has been afforded protection as one of a number of wrecks leased to the Shetland Islands Council by the Crown Estates Commission, which allows the Council to control access. There are a number of other notable wrecks, dating from Viking times to very recently this century. Details of the most notable are given in Appendix 7 of this document. There is a Protection of Wrecks Act 1973, but this has not been applied to any Fair Isle wrecks.

Fair Isle’s maritime associations are also reflected in a number of terrestrial archaeological sites

On land, there is ample archaeological evidence of Fair Isle’s long maritime tradition and association with the sea. This ranges from older archaeological sites with their fish bone and seabird remains (Hunter 1996) to historically more recent trading and fishing stores (e.g. the fish store bí d at North Haven, the Puffinn at Skadan), traditional noosts and a range of other artefacts bearing witness to the Fair Isle community’s close relationship with the sea. Further details of this relationship are given in Hunter (1996) and Thom (1989).

Tourism

Fair Isle’s wildlife, cultural heritage and "naturalness" the basis for economically important Tourism

Fair Isle has long been a destination for adventurers, for instance Sir Walter Scott was a visitor in 1814. However, meaningful tourism and the infrastructure to sustain tourism, only became a reality as recently as 1948 when the Fair Isle Bird Observatory Trust established an accommodation based research station on the isle. Further developments, by FIBOT and elsewhere on the isle, continued and tourism has become an increasingly important contributor to the social and economic well-being of the isle. The tourism philosophy is one of quality rather than quantity. Quantity is restricted by the limitations of transport, normal public access being restricted to an 8-seater plane and a 12-place ferry boat. Fair Isle, therefore, is never swamped by tourists, but this is a factor which appeals to those who come. People visit for many reasons, but the majority are attracted by a combination of Fair Isle’s wildlife, cultural heritage and "unspoiled" character (whether in wildlife, landscape, human activities or community spirit). The maritime elements are therefore very important factors in attracting visitors to the isle, indirectly supporting and sustaining the isle’s social and economic life.

Aesthetic values the catalyst for socio-economic benefits

The raw material is there to exploit those maritime elements even further. The sheer diversity of life existing around the shores, from the rock pools through to deep water, is impressive. Inshore are the rock pools full of seaweeds and a range of invertebrate animals including hard and soft corals, shore, edible and velvet crabs. A little farther offshore is a scuba-diver’s paradise, with some particularly impressive scenic dives. It is possible to play hide-and-seek with grey seals among underwater caves and grottos, hung with dead men’s fingers - one of the nicest of the soft corals. It is possible to run fingers over a Spanish cannon from the wreck of El Gran Grifon and, enjoy a range of natural colours unimagined by the uninitiated: pinks, yellows, oranges and whites of countless sea squirts, urchins, anemones and stars. These are largely aesthetic values which nevertheless offer marked socio-economic benefits to the isle.

Education

Education activities focus on Fair Isle’s rich environment and cultural heritage, including the marine

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Copyright © 1999 Fair Isle Marine, Environment & Tourism Initiative
Last modified: February 05, 2002