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Vol.21 No. 10
25th April 1998
A Bridge to the Past
When I was asked to write something about being brought up as a
Lighthouse child, it opened up a whole lot of memories, beginning at Buchan Ness, just
south of Peterhead.
Buchan Ness was a tall tower with a single red band around the tower about half way up.
The houses were built around a small courtyard, with the principal's house just separate
on the landward side. The station stood on a little island, connected to the mainland by a
small wooden bridge, which led directly into the village of Boddam on the Buchan coast.
My first impression of Buchan Ness was the Foghorn, which seemed to boom out day after
day, and yet, as soon as you crossed the bridge you were in brilliant sunshine. I don't
remember too much about the actual station, but I remember we had some strange visitors,
like the Chow (a large Chinese dog), on whose back I remember riding. Weasels used to
cross over on to the island, and the men were forever trying to smoke them out of the
dykes.
I remember going shopping with mum, proudly pedalling a small car dad had made, and I
gazed longingly at a large jar of toffee-apples on sticks on the counter of the shop we
always visited.' When eventually, mum relented and bought me one, I discovered that they
were more trouble than they were worth, and ended up with more toffee on my face than in
my stomach, half my jersey adhering to the apple, and my hands stuck, one onto the stick,
and the other in my trouser pocket!
There were pools around the station where we used to sail our boats, and we also used
to find sticklebacks, tadpoles and on one occasion tiny green frog.
I remember a trip to Santa's Grotto in Woolies, where I got a hammer, with a feathered
dart on top, and when fed with pistol caps and banged on a hard surface, the dart used to
shoot an incredible
distance into the air. Dad and Archie MacEachran spent a considerable amount of time,
not to mention quantity of caps, trying to land the dart on the balcony, and I think they
actually managed it.
Lastly there was the old, retired fisherman whom we called Black Peter. He used to come
down around -the shore whenever it was weather, and he always had a smile and a story for
us, and then, when he was ready to leave, his hand would go to his pocket and out would
come sticks of hard round liquorice which he would hand round.
Living at Buchan Ness wasn't really much different from living here, from the family
aspect as dad was always at home, but the next shift flung us into an entirely different
category.
Quoy Stewart.

On Thursday Colin Webster came to the school. He is here on holiday from Canada. He
used to live in Scotland but he now he lives in Fort Ware in Canada.
He moved there in 1974 to work for the Hudson Bay company and then for the Arctic
Co-op. He owns the only shop in Fort Ware and it is 3 times the size of Stackhoull stores.
The shop sells everything that people want such as groceries, quad bikes, clothes and snow
mobiles etc. It is open every day from Monday to Friday, 9am to 5pm.
Fort Ware had a road built to it seven years ago which is usually able to be open 10
months of the year. Most of the supplies come by boat. A 5 ton truck delivers supplies
once a week from Prince George. It comes alot of the way on a boat. There is a freezer on
the lorry but it cannot take ice-cream. Ice-cream is a luxury and has to come on the
plane. It costs $15 in Fort Ware and only $3 in Prince George.
Before the new road was built the supplies had to come 200 miles up the lake by barge
and then carried to the airstrip to fly the last 55 miles. This meant the cost of food was
very high, a dozen eggs cost £3-50 and now they cost £2-99.
The nearest doctor is 300 miles away. There is a nurse who works in 3 different towns
so Fort Ware has a nurse 2 weeks a month and there are also 2 nursing assistants employed.
If there is a serious problem the patient is flown out. The Indians get free medical
treatment and other people need good medical insurance. There is no policeman or Sheriff !
but there is a Canadian Mountie troupe.
There are two airlines who fly to Fort Ware. Northern Thunderbird flies twice a day
Monday to Friday and once on a Saturday. Wilson Lake Air fly once a day. The Post Office
charters the plane every Wednesday for mail. The plane takes 1 hour 45 mins and costs
£120-00 one-way from Prince George.
The school has 6 teachers, a Head Teacher, 4 teaching aides and 120 pupils. The first
school was built 25 years ago when it only needed one class. Next year they are having a
gym and an adult education centre built. They have an outdoor, flood lit ice hockey rink
outside. Like all the other buildings the school is made of wood and it is heated by a
wood stove where the heat is blown under the floors.
They have one computer to every two children. More than 50% of the population of Fort
Ware is under 15 years old.
There are only two cars in Fort Ware, everyone travels on quads, snow mobiles or 4
wheel drive trucks. People do not keep animals because there is very little grass. There
are lots of trees and most people are employed in the logging industry.
In Summer it is very hot, it has been nearly 100°C. There is very little wind and in
Winter it is extremely cold. They have two seasons - Summer and Winter! All the power in
the area is supplied by four generators.
Thank you very much for the visit Colin. By the time you see this you should be at home
unless you are still here on Saturday due to the fog.
The school

DA WEEK DATS AWA
SATURDAY, 18 April:
Quietness and respectability settled like a warm blanket over
the Obs. after a rushed and late departure of our three divers on the Friday evening. They
suggested we might miss them and in a way there is a void left in their wake. They did
bring variety and interest into our lives and chances are they will be back to bring more.
The northerly winds finally lost their grip and a southerly breeze brought us all a
little summer, so much so that I was persuaded to do a morning census. After the exciting
influx of thrushes and finches just over a week ago things had quietened but the Song
Thrushes and Blackbirds were still abundant and a few more Wheatear and Goldcrest had
found their way to the isle. Skylarks, Meadow Pipits and Curlew filled the air with their
wonderful songs, calls and displays.
SUNDAY:
The sun was lost in a thin cloudy haze but still a beautiful
day. An early start for the bird staff for the Tysti count produced only 174 birds a low
figure compared with other years. Not wanting to waste the opportunity the Dunter were
counted also with 363 birds seen. A Common Sandpiper and the return of the Arctic Skuas
were the other notable events of the morning.
The crew of the Shetland Lifeboat joined us for Sunday lunch. Unfortunately, they were
off before we all had chance to take a look at the boat, but they promised they would be
back during the summer. Stuart and Pat Wilson came for lunch with Pat's son Murray. Pat
read the daily bird record on the board and wondered what a Fibofinch was. We have had one
in the Obs. garden for some time now and R did cause quite a bit of excitement when Steve
first discovered ft. Fibofinch, Charlie's affectionate name for the bird, is a Chaffinch
of dubious parentage. That's maybe a little unfair but he shows many of the plumage
characters of the north African race of Chaffinch, with an almost all blue-grey head,
green back, an orange-pink breast, and white belly. Paul managed to entrap the little
beast with his 12 metre whoosh net one afternoon so that we could get a really good
description to submit to the Rarities Committee, and unfortunately Fibofinch doesn't seem
to be 100% African. He could be a hybrid between the European race (like our usual
Chaffinch) and the African race, but we are not sure. The day ended with a gentle saunter
to Roskilie to check the Puffins for colour rings (a busman's saunter). It was
spellbinding just sitting near the little 'cheeky chappies' haloed by the evening sun,
watching their bill-clapping display (reminiscent of albatross) and their scurrying around
for nest material.
MONDAY:
A quiet start to the week, despite the favourable winds very
few new birds made landfall on the isle. The crew sat at Taft for a few hours
hoping for a catch of Starlings, but their concentration was disturbed by a possible
Osprey sighting which remained unconfirmed by the end of the day. I did get to ring a nice
adult female Rook, caught at Taft, which was only the sixth to be ringed on the isle. I'll
take this opportunity to say a little about the bird staff.
Charlie (Chas) Holt is the Assistant Warden, from Hove in Sussex and he graduated from
UEA in 1997 having studied environmental sciences. While at UEA he was secretary of the
East Anglia Bird Club, and before going to university was captain of Brighton College
Soccer 2nd Xl. He lists his hobbies as birds, sport,
travel and natural history.
Steve Turner is the Seabird Monitoring Officer, from Newcastle-under-Lyme near Stoke and
graduated in the same class as Charlie at UEA. He was president of UEA Bird Club in 1995
and was runner up in the Young Ornithologist of the Year competition in 1993. He has a
keen interest in general natural history and is also interested in sport, especially
football, and music.
TUESDAY:
In the afternoon, the bird staff braved the Quoy midden,
helping Stuart spread manure over the rigs. I was introduced to the new calf and then made
my getaway, making the excuse of meeting the ferry. The Good Shepherd arrived home in good
time and full to the gunwales with goodies. Safe and sound was our new computer, on which
I write this now. Too busy to set it up tonight as out to glass and couldn't let Paul have
all the fun. Glass class was much needed by those of us still crafting our creations, but
Patrick was still not too fit and took a little nap during the evening. A quick glance at
my Sunday Times before bed was depressing, yet again I failed to make the 'Rich List'
(Britain's wealthiest 1000 persons), maybe next year.
WEDNESDAY:
Ferocious weather greeted us this morning, but the bird staff still went out on census
just in case the easterly winds had brought anything new. Only Blackcap and Grasshopper
Warbler to add to the disappointing list of summer migrants so far this spring. After
lunch I set about putting our new computer together. So far so good, R's so nice to get
back to Windows 95.
The weather kept us all in, even the intrepid dyke-feeler known usually as Jane, and
maintenance work around the Obs. kept all busy while Jane played with electronic gismos.
Jane is studying Starling incubation routines and has all kinds of technical stuff to
measure nest temperatures and film what the birds are doing, etc., now all she needs is
her first finished nest, some birds are adding material now. At evening log R was revealed
that the first Swallow and House Martins of the spring had indeed found the isle, but as
they say 'one swallow a summer does not make' (or something like that).
THURSDAY:
As I said 'one swallow', the weather was even worse this morning, but yet again the
intrepid bird staff ventured out. If I were a 10g warbler I would certainly seek refuge
and not move anywhere on a day like today, in fact despite not being a tiny feathered
thing that's exactly what I am going to do.
Tried to play a CD on our new computer and couldn't get any sound, no device recognised.
After a little play to see if I could solve it I gave in and called Viking Computers for
advice, 'make sure the speakers are plugged into the right hole' was the answer. What a
difference it made and what an idiot. Next thing is to work out putting the phone and tax
through the computer so that I am fully automated.
Wishing a happy St. George's Day to all the English persons on the isle (and anyone else
who wants to celebrate the dying art of dragon slaying). Do we get the day off? (I think
not). A horrid afternoon, but we did venture south in the old van to collect a few things.
Did see my first Swallow at the plantation late in the afternoon.
FRIDAY:
Went down to the school to give each of the children one of the new postcards that they
did the artwork for. They have turned out really well and are now available to buy at the
Obs. (35p each), with profit divided between the Obs. and the school. Had a quick coffee
at Aesterhoull East and then back to the office for the rest of the day.
The daily census turned up a few more migrants: Sedge Warbler, Yellow Wagtail and Tree
Pipit, but generally very quiet. Late afternoon Paul and I spent a few hours planning the
layout of where the new trap will be positioned around the new plantation next to the Obs.
After a lengthy debate we settled on an approximate shape and then set to planting the new
bushes and trees that came in a while ago. We put in some large Rosa rugosa roots, that we had brought up from Cumbria with us,
toward where the front of the trap will be and hopefully over the next few days we will
plant the willows, more Rosa and other stuff we
have. I was thinking of Stoneybreck Pat while I was planting today as last time we planted
willows in the old plantation she helped out, but this time she will miss the fun. I hope
you are well soon Pat, and then you can venture out to take a look at how things are
coming along. And that was 'da week dats awa'.
Helen Baker at the Obs.

ADVANCE NOTICE - Sunday School Meeting As mentioned by John
in the Chapel last Sunday, a meeting will be arranged sometime during this next fortnight
concerning the way forward for the Sunday School. When Pat is feeling better, we will ring
round and arrange a time and date for the meeting.
At present there are eleven bairns aged between 4 and 11 years who attend, with the
possibility of other younger bairns ready to join in after the summer holidays. This is
tremendous, and we wish to think both parents and bairns for their support.
The youngsters are keen, and there is obvious potential for an exciting and dynamic
future for the Sunday School, but we are in urgent need of additional
teachers/helpers (including a replacement for Elizabeth who is currently retiring as one
of the two regular volunteer teachers). It is very important to find additional
teachers/helpers if Sunday School is to continue successfully, if at all.
Will you please give the above some thought. Whether you have practical help or ideas
to offer, or you simply have an interest in supporting the future work of the Sunday
School, please try and find time to come along to the meeting.
Please note: Unfortunately, there will not be a Sunday School this week. However,
Stewart will be giving a children's address in the Kirk, after which parents can take
children out of the service if they wish.
Elizabeth

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Kirk on Sunday, Stewart Wilson.
Challenge,
"And what of Judas - was even Hell too good for him?"

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